FiveseveNForum.com

I see no reason the Forster Co-Ax wouldn't work. It uses the same standard threads for accepting reloading dies. You may have problems with the shellholder jaws, but I've heard of a shellholder adapter plate that allows the use of a typical shellholder.

Thanks deep sea pete I am the person who posted that question about the forster co-ax press, you mentioned a shell holder plate for the 5.7x28 (adapter) : for the forster as well if you or any one knows of/or can steer me to it I would greatly appreciate that as well, Again Thank you very much. Carsfor

The shellholder adapter plate is for use with typical shellholders from Lee, RCBS, or Hornady, and is made by Forster. I found it in the Accessories section of their website for $19.60. It's item AP1000.

Here's a link to it:
http://www.forsterproducts.com/catalog. ... did=627373" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks again to you (deep sea pete)!!I just purchased them from forster products because my plan is to purchase a forster co-ax very soon, because what I have read about it, is( very positive ),as far as a good reloader, and I can get the press at a fairly reasonable price. Carsfor

hey all,

another newb here...am new to reloading for the 57 but have been reloading for pistol and a coupla of rifle calibers for a while.

been reading wiki, the various posts n stuff to get a leg up. i was intrigued by the use of ultrasonic cleaners so i researched and found that harbor freight has their 2 1/2 qt heated US cleaner for $59.99. if you print the internet ad and bring it to your local storefront, they should honor the online price.

have been testing it out on some very dirty 45acp and it does a fairly decent job with a bit of dish soap and cream of tartar.

glad to be part of the group, am look forward to learning/sharing tips...

lekim :cya:

What does the cream of tartar do to the cleaning solution? Thicken it? :ponder:

Toynut wrote:What does the cream of tartar do to the cleaning solution? Thicken it? :ponder:

a legitimate question...i think? :ponder: that is unless you're messin with me in which case :lmao:

cream of tartar or better known as potassium hydrogen tartrate, an acid salt that has a number of uses including being used to clean brass.

cream of tartar is obtained when tartaric acid is half neutralized with potassium hydroxide, transforming it into a salt. adding some to your cleaning solution forms a very mild acid which really helps brighten up the brass, cutting thru that sooty build-up inside and out of the case.

I haven't tried it on the FN lacquer as yet, not having a UV lite for pre/post inspection but when i do, i'll let ya know how the meringue turns out. :drool:

Hi lekim, I was just wondering are you into chemistry/chemist, and if so why is it #1 called cream of tartar and,#2 if it does have an effect on the FN laquer would that be very advisable to do. Carfors :ponder:

Hey carsfor,

Nope, I'm not a chemist but chemistry was probably some of the most fun and interesting classes I had in college. I did seriously think about it as a career many years ago.

So, I can't explain why they call it cream of tartar...it's a deactivated form of tartaric acid. After tartaric acid forms, it is mixed with potassium hydroxide to neutralize the acid. This mixture results in cream of tartar, which is not actually a cream, but a crystalline powder. The addition of water to cream of tartar displaces some of the KOH (potassium hydroxide), resulting in a weak organic acid...not overly agressive.

Cream of tartar is an excellent cleaning agent. Mixing cream of tartar and lemon juice results in a great copper cleaner. Hot water or hydrogen peroxide mixed with cream of tartar can help remove stains from aluminum pans. It's a natural compound found in many fruits and the main acid in wine (I didn't know that...I always thought it was tannic acid in wine, you know they always talk about the tannins...). The nice thing about it is that when you're done with it, you pour it down the drain and not have to worry about it causing a toxic nightmare or killing fish or any of that hazwaste stuff.....

Read more: Tartaric Acid - The Chemistry Of Tartaric Acid, Uses Of Tartaric Acid http://science.jrank.org/pages/6698/Tar ... z0esddhx5Q" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I had some very dirty, tarnished brass and decided to try the cream of tartar versus hours and hours and hours of tumbling which wasn't removing the carbon. My results have yielded quicker cleaning, the US cleaner cleans the soot (I find that letting the brass soak in hot water first before cleaning helps loosen up the carbon deposits), the cream of tartar shines the brass (removes oxidation) and a quick tumble in corncob makes it look practically factory new. It sure helps with sorting and inspecting...

As I mentioned in my previous post, I haven't tried this yet with the lacquered FN brass until I get a UV light and test it out. When I do, I'll post my results.

Lekim

WOW thats something new..... I use simple green and vinegar in my mix

Thanks again; that explanation certainly cleared up a muddy situation. Sincerely,Carsfor

Lekim,

That is probably one of the coolest tips yet. I'll have to try that out vs my current method.

rickys2 wrote:WOW thats something new..... I use simple green and vinegar in my mix

:huh: WOW...vinegar really? Did you ever do that experiment in school as a kid where you stuck a penny in a container of Coca-cola?...and it dissolved it?

I'm sure you know that brass is basically an alloy of copper and zinc...yes, there are different formulations but all brass has copper as a big part of it's overall composition.

Vinegar's primary component is acetic acid (ph~2.4). Lemon juice (citric acid) is even more acidic with a ph less than 2...so I would think that acetic acid could be overly agressive depending on how much you dilute it. I thought I had read somewhere in this forum that if one left their brass in the cleaning solution for too long (simple green/vinegar?), it turned black. So why does the brass turn black? Is it something in the simple green or is the vinegar attacking the copper or is the zinc that's on the losing end? Does simple green/water alone have the same issue with discoloring the brass ? :ponder:

Again, I'm not a chemist...but I live with one, well sorta...she's a pharm grad student so I bounce my ideas offa her. So far, the cream of tartar is working well. Of course, being an engineer, the axiom goes something like;
if it ain't broken...can you improve it? :thumb:

Sorry lekim, I went to Catholic school and in high school I was academic had very little use for the simple things in life like basic chemistry I had to concentrate mostly on the complex problems to get my scholarships I even failed biology so I ended up in the army where the only chemistry I used was to get along with my sergeant after that a family and then finally a divorce and so on, and so forth, I have said all this just to say I was an average guy, who is now happy to be finally able to do what I want to! and now I rely on people like you to show me the way, hopefully, I can grasp all this so I can do a better job at trying to reload a few different types of cartridges. all in all I am very greatful to have found this site it has already given me a great deal of information and thank you again,Carfor signing off for now. 10-4 good buddy :thumb:

Lekim wrote:

rickys2 wrote:Of course, being an engineer, the axiom goes something like; if it ain't broken...can you improve it? :thumb:

I thought the axiom went "if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is." :laugh:

Thanks for the tip and info
on the cream of tartar. I always Thought it was a starch ofsome kind and have some in the kitchen cabinet for cooking purposes and making whipped cream and such :ponder:
BTW,
How much of it do you put in the solution per quart?

i still haven't perfected the mixture yet (i have once fired 57 brass in transit...then i can dial the proportions in). rite now, i've been using 1/2 tsp/4 cups of hot water plus some dawn dish soap (a few drops). i have noticed that after running 1 load of brass thru the US cleaner, you really need to start another fresh batch of solution if cleaning additional cases...and it really doesn't do that good of a job cleaning the primer pockets out. when i get some pics taken, i'll post showing some .223 i cleaned up last weekend. you can see a difference with the naked eye, not sure how that'll translate to the camera tho'. :ponder: i've got some other uncoated brass that i can play with to try and get the amount of cream of tartar optimized (for uncoated cases).

i still need to get a black lite to make sure this concoction won't harm the lacquer coating on the 57 brass....hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

thanks for asking :cya:

lekim

Hi wollychop, I have a question? When reloading the 5.7x28, the reloading specs, do you have a suggestion for the case length, and or the powder grain amounts, or do you know of a manual that has all this info. thanks in advance, Carsfor :huh:

carsfor, have you checked out Forum wiki at the top of the page? There is a reloading section with all the specs. Also there are plenty of reloading threads with the info, just use the search function

Hi every one, I think we can add another bullet to this list, its the barnes solid banded 45 gr. I was told it is a very good addition for reloading the 5.7. Sincerely, Carmsfor

To rapier1772 thanks for the info it was and is very helpful. Carmsfor :clap:

carsfor wrote:can a forster co-ax press be used to reload the 5.7x28

I use the Forster and except for priming, it works great. I use either my RCBS single stage or my hand primer for priming. You will have to buy the extra shell holder set due to the small size though.

Thank you so much ehryk I really appreciate the reply and one more question to you about this what do you use to clean the cases or have, you been using new ones, I am up in the air about a sonic cleaner . Carsfor :clap:

I just do a very lite tumbeling before and after resizing (yes, I know its not good for the coating). Just enough to get the grime off before resizing and get the lube off after.

Hi ehryk, thanks again for your input, and I believe it does a good job the way you do it, but my question was about the sonic cleaner,wether or not to invest in one, or to look into something like a sidewinder type tumbler. Sincerely, Carsfor :ponder:

ehryk wrote:

carsfor wrote:can a forster co-ax press be used to reload the 5.7x28

I use the Forster and except for priming, it works great. I use either my RCBS single stage or my hand primer for priming. You will have to buy the extra shell holder set due to the small size though.

What about the Forster does not work well for priming the 5.7? (I'm thinking about picking this one up for a single stage press)


Onyx

Hello, I'm looking to start reloading the five seven but I need a shell plate for the Hornaday Pro-jector progressive press. Does anybody know where I can have one made? Thank you.

hank44mag wrote:Hello, I'm looking to start reloading the five seven but I need a shell plate for the Hornaday Pro-jector progressive press. Does anybody know where I can have one made? Thank you.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4919&start=0&hilit=lonnie" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Check out this thread.

OnyxSkyDV wrote:

ehryk wrote:

carsfor wrote:can a forster co-ax press be used to reload the 5.7x28

I use the Forster and except for priming, it works great. I use either my RCBS single stage or my hand primer for priming. You will have to buy the extra shell holder set due to the small size though.

What about the Forster does not work well for priming the 5.7? (I'm thinking about picking this one up for a single stage press)


Onyx

The hole that the priming ram goes through is the same size as the 5.7 brass. Also, the adjustable tabs for holding the brass in place don't contact enough of the rim and will rip it off on the up stroke.

Thanks for the reply Ehryk, that makes alot of sense.

I have a sinclair hand priming tool on the way now.

Onyx

to laughing boy and the rest of his know it all cohorts please check f3rr37 on his list of reloading equipment for the 5.7x28. Sincerely ,carsfor

What can someone expect to pay in total to start reloading these rounds from having no equipment, looking for a rough estimate, nothing specific. I have some friends that reload their ammo but I have never messed with it.

Here's what I started with. There is a more complete list and options in the Wiki. Take your time with the Wiki. Everything you'll want to know about the 5.7 is here somewhere. Look around. w/index.php/Reloading" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Reloading ABCs: http://www.midwayusa.com/Search/#ABC%20 ... -4_8-16-32" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $16.99
Single stage Lee Press and kit: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=121744" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $104.00
Dies: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=261573" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $34.99

Blue tips from Elite Ammo 250 - http://www.eliteammunition.net/catalog/ ... 751507.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ~30.00
Powder ~$20 lb.
primers ~$30/1000
Once fired brass from Scharch: http://www.scharch.com/proddetail.php?prod=2S5.7X8MY-M" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $43.00/1000

About $300 bucks not including the little stuff
Case length gage: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=266946" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Trimmer: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=515804" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $16.99
Trimmer cutter and lock stud: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=476992" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; 4.99

--cvande

Thanks for taking your time to answer my question.

That really isnt as bad as I thought it would be. I realize it could be give or take 100 probable depending on little stuff

I am using the Hornady LNL AP with the custom plate from Hornady. It works really well. I just added the automatic case feeder and am having difficulty getting it to work for the 5.7 It keeps double and triple feeding. Has anyone had any experience with this?

carsfor wrote:Hi ehryk, thanks again for your input, and I believe it does a good job the way you do it, but my question was about the sonic cleaner,wether or not to invest in one, or to look into something like a sidewinder type tumbler. Sincerely, Carsfor :ponder:

I am interested in a Sonic Cleaner as well. Is this a good alternative to simple green solution? Also, on the east coast, I couldn't find "Simple Green". However, I did find "Mean Green". No joke. Is this okay to use? I understand that the coating on the cases help to aid on the P90 magazine. What if your only intent to reload is for the FiveseveN? Is the sensitive cleaning really required if you are only reloading for the FsN pistol?

bpasky wrote:

carsfor wrote:Hi ehryk, thanks again for your input, and I believe it does a good job the way you do it, but my question was about the sonic cleaner,wether or not to invest in one, or to look into something like a sidewinder type tumbler. Sincerely, Carsfor :ponder:

I am interested in a Sonic Cleaner as well. Is this a good alternative to simple green solution? Also, on the east coast, I couldn't find "Simple Green". However, I did find "Mean Green". No joke. Is this okay to use? I understand that the coating on the cases help to aid on the P90 magazine. What if your only intent to reload is for the FiveseveN? Is the sensitive cleaning really required if you are only reloading for the FsN pistol?

"Mean Green" from what I have read on it is concentrated "Simple Green" I would cut it at least one part "Mean Green" to 6 parts water.

One more category: bullet case

A .38/357 Magnum case will hold the 5.7x28mm round perfectly. If you just want something for the empty cases, you can use the .380/9mm case. I've used Cabela's or MGM brand cases for this.

Hey going to start reloading the 5.7 and want to buy a press just for that. I was looking into the lee turret press and was wondering if 5.7 parts are made for it or what ones work. I've been reloading for a few years now so I'm aware of the other tid bits I'm going to need but any help or info would be great. Thanks ahead of time any input would be awesome.

I would advise you to go to the forum archive or the wiki I believe there is a complete list of things that you can use and as far as I know elite ammunition has a good list of loaded and reloading equipment Sincerely, Carsfor

Just bought two PS90 and a 5.7 in route, question, is the Lee Pacesetter dies: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?p ... roductDesc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the same one in the equipment list.. granted it's 2011 compared to the 2008 list. Just want to make sure before I place the order.

f3rr37 wrote:

Grantness wrote:The shells fit in the shellholder for the case length gage/trimmer....at least I have had no problems with mine.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=266946" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; That? I had to use a dremel to open up the mouth for the case to slip in.

This is a dead link.

Call LEE, I think they still make them there just not listed.

Doug

If my conversation with the Lee product support people is correct the 5.7 dies available are not pacesetter dies, as the Factory Crimp Die is not included. The available die set is a two die set, the same size and bullet seating die as the pacesetter set, just no FCD. There is some issue with making the shorter length crimp die using the available equipment?

The product support person was helpful. His claim was that the collet part of the FCD is made of a steel that is not easily welded, so making a FCD using a 218 BEE FCD appears dependent on getting a 218 BEE die with shorter "cuts" in it. This was mentioned in another discussion here, by EA, I think. Unless some kind person figures out a process to weld up a little bit of the cuts.....

I am new to reloading and would like to know the specific equipment I need to start reloading my 5.7x28mm brass. If anyone on here has had success with a specific type of press, die, ext. please let me know what you used.

The night's exercise was to run a small batch of test loads, which means that I had to sort out all of my reloading equipment for suitability with the 5.7. ALL of the Lee equipment I have bought for this cartridge appear to be top shelf. I mentioned in a new thread that the shell holder was modified to gain clearance on cratered primers, but otherwise everything else functioned flawlessly.

NONE of my regular powder measures seemed happy with dropping small charges of AA#7, which is the powder I am starting with. Ended up using an old Bonanza rotary measure that I used in my bullseye shooting days, then trickled up to the various loads I wanted. What is the magic bullet today for powder measures?

Others have made comments about the Lee AutoPrime shell holder not fitting. Mine was perfect, as received from Lee, but I note that the AutoPrime I have is about 30 years old.

My initial bullet to experiment with is the Sierra 40 gr. Hornet bullet, #1200. That flat based little darling is difficult to start straight, and one or two ended up causing the case neck to not be concentric with the bore axis, by a little bit. I will be interested to see if that makes much difference.

s64woody wrote:If my conversation with the Lee product support people is correct the 5.7 dies available are not pacesetter dies, as the Factory Crimp Die is not included. The available die set is a two die set, the same size and bullet seating die as the pacesetter set, just no FCD. There is some issue with making the shorter length crimp die using the available equipment?

The product support person was helpful. His claim was that the collet part of the FCD is made of a steel that is not easily welded, so making a FCD using a 218 BEE FCD appears dependent on getting a 218 BEE die with shorter "cuts" in it. This was mentioned in another discussion here, by EA, I think. Unless some kind person figures out a process to weld up a little bit of the cuts.....

I really do not understand why Lee does not make a Factory Crimp Die. Several here (including me) have successfully modified the 218 Bee and 223 Rem. die to crimp the 5.7. See this thread viewtopic.php?f=19&t=170" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. You do have to get a die with the shorter cuts but it is a rather simple process with the right die. I also wish lee would make a shell plate for their progressive press.

I now have my Lee Turret Press set up to load the 5.7 and have reloaded about 150 rounds so far. Have shot about 40 rounds with out any problems.

My next project is to get the powder measurement automated as this is the most time consuming part right now. I am hand measuring each charge at the moment.

Curlysir When I spoke with Lee they said that they COULD NOT make a 5.7 FCD with the equipment they had. I note that it was simply childs play to shorten the 218 BEE FCD to use with the 5.7. I believe they do not WANT to go to the trouble for a low demand item.

Possibly I was just lucky that my die had short "slots" cut into it. I only removed about .235 inches in length to get the correct length. There was a whole lot of meat left. Maybe I am too hard on Lee.

s64woody sez: "My initial bullet to experiment with is the Sierra 40 gr. Hornet bullet, #1200. That flat based little darling is difficult to start straight, ..."

GONRA and many other use the Hornady .224 seat die that solves these problems.
Can't remember exact Hornady nomenclature, but it verks GREAT with 5.7x28FN!

Woody sez thanks for the tip. Never tried to use that die set, will have to find one. The LEE bullet seating die is functional, but challenged in this regards.

I have positively settled the question about using the Dillion powder measure to throw charges using fine ball power. Does not work with fine ball powder, it jams up and will not throw consistent charges. At least the two Dillon powder measures I have will not work. They are the original units from my RL 450

Working up loads with the single stage press is fine. I cannot imagine using it to produce ammo, once the development work is done. So I need to find an option that will work with the Dillon....

GONRA found the plastic Hornady die containers.
Sliding sleeve orients bullet axially whilst seating.
These should verk with any reasonable cartidge that uses
.224 or .308 inch diameter bullets. Labels:

044102 DIE BS #2 (.224) 22 CAL W/146

044112 DIE BS #12 (.308) 30 CAL W/147

Someone has to find a better way to size these brass. I crunch about 1 in 5 of them with the sizing die. The neck collapses. I am using redding dies on a custom Dillon 650 setup I built. Anyone have any suggestions on what's causing the brass to collapse?

WA-TOM: using Lee dies on a single stage press until I get the Dillon going. Have not lost a single case the way you describe.

try using lube inside of the necks. my preference is hornady case lube in the aerosol can.

Haven't had any problems using Lee's dies and single stage press.

I am using RCBS dies and I have collapsed the neck on everyone of the shells that I have tried to put through. The die sizes so tight that I have to work the shell in part way then out until it get to the sizing otherwise the case gets stuck. I have had to pull several cases with the tap and pull method. Once I get to the neck sizing it just collapses to the shoulder. :wall:

Burt wrote:I am using RCBS dies and I have collapsed the neck on everyone of the shells that I have tried to put through. The die sizes so tight that I have to work the shell in part way then out until it get to the sizing otherwise the case gets stuck. I have had to pull several cases with the tap and pull method. Once I get to the neck sizing it just collapses to the shoulder. :wall:

I use RCBS dies. They are my first choice for all the large caliber custom rifle ammo I make. RCBS though is my last choice for the 5.7x28. I would suggest getting a set of cheap azz LEE when you get a chance.

What lube are you using?

You may want to polish the inside pf the die also.

Hello everyone. I am new to this site but have been viewing for a while and decided to share some findings on factory loads.

I have about 5000 rounds total of the SS197SR, but I purchased a new box of the SS197SR from Midway USA just to do some checking. I pulled all the bullets and weighed them. All were right at 40g +-.05g. Every case measured exactly the same within +-.0005". Now comes the odd part. I measured the powder charge from every one of the 50 rounds and it was erratic. I got anywhere from 3.85 grains to 5.82 grains.

A little back ground: I used a Collete Bullet Puller, a brown and sharp digital micrometer, a brown and sharp ID digital micrometer, a Mitutoyo OD 3 jaw micrometer and a professional lad scale calibrated and accurate to .0015 grain. I verified the scale after every 5th measurement.

So the reason for my experiment is because I've read so much about how the 5.7x28mm is hard to reload, it picky and you have to be accurate to +-.1 grain or it could blow up in your hand. Based on what I found, the OEM rounds are not very precise on their use of whatever powder they are using.

I have a the RCBS dies, 318bee converted crimp die, 40g bullets and 35g bullets, Accurate #5, #7 and #9 powder along with four manuals. I've loaded up 10 rounds of 5 different formulas staying 10% below the minimum powder charge. I'm still not sure if I want to squeeze the trigger.

Any thoughts?

Was the data you were using for crimped or uncrimped rounds? Crimping is a huge game changer on 5.7 and I have had no issues with uncrimped rounds I simply don't find that extra added possible inconsistency worth it at all.

Hello Thedirtyheat, I actually haven fired any of my loads. I am very skeptical about the factory load accuracy and all the load data that has been published. But to answer part of your question, I have both crimped and un-crimped. I did some set back test on blank rounds and found that the un-crimped rounds get pushed in between .005 and.025", my crimped rounds had zero set back.

Yes but the crimped rounds are going to have pressure differences, load data for uncrimped even out of a load manual or your own will not work for crimped and crimped is going to give you higher pressures, and there is a good chance (I don't know what projectile you're using) but that set back or atleast part of it may be the tip slightly deforming that was my findings on v max, once again I'm no all knowing guru im just trying to help you avoid a bad error. Also read a recent post on the crimping causing the projectile to deform. I'm not saying you can't crimp, just warning you there are variants and differences to look out for.

Impressive list and thank you for the information.

Would you be able to ballpark the cost of reloading 40 grain ballistic tips?

rolcle wrote:Would you be able to ballpark the cost of reloading 40 grain ballistic tips?

Approx $.22 per round. If you buy in bulk it would help. Or get to EA's pull downs before any of the rest of us do :laugh:

Rapier1772 has the same number I came up with. I decided to start reloading this round because it comes out to about 1/2 the price of factory rounds.

i have a dillon 650 , but everone know it cannot be used due to the shellplate problem. as a result i purchased a 550B and whatever else i needed to load the 5.7 just wanted to share this information about the 550B: it does not have the powder check system that the 650 does, but you can add one. i have found it not necessary(with my brass so far) to size the neck of the cases. as a result i removed this die, drilled the necessary hole in the 550B tool head(located in the same place as the 650) and then installed the 650 powder check in the 550B toolhead. it works perfectly, and i feel much better now knowing if i have too much powder or not enough. just be sure to check that the alarm is working before you begin loading by pushing the switch in manually. john

What are good electric and regular scales? Also does anyone use a trickler? I was also wondering what tools are used to handle powder? Yea yea I'm a noob. If anyone lives in MN I'd love to watch or shadow someone reloading.

What do you use to measure the OAL? Preferred brand? Website I could purchase?

From viewtopic.php?f=19&t=12318" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

To measure lengths

panzermk2 wrote:This is the one you should buy.
http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-120A-6-C ... 857&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Starrett 120A-6 White Dial Calipers, Hardened Stainless Steel, 0-6" Range, .001" Graduations

During your search of Starrett calipers you will see ones like this one priced at half. Those are made over seas and aren't as good as the USA made one I list above.

For the scale (from the same thread)

panzermk2 wrote:The Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale and only the Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale. Again I have all the other, RCBS, SinClair, LEE and more. Non are as reliable, accurate and easy to use. I have a 20 year old Eliminator and it works and measure identically to the NIB Eliminator (Shop back up) that I bought a month ago.

Your mileage may vary this is my opinion.

As for the trickler, I just use a baby spoon for dropping powder into the dish anyway, I don't bother with a trickler anymore.

If you are that new to reloading, you might want to start with another cartridge. This round is very sensitive to pressures. You can (& some do) start with this round, but be careful!

I'm brand new to this forum, I've been reloading since the early 70's, I've used RCBS Rock Chucker, PonsnessWarren presses, reloaded for 9mm, .38 spec., .357 mag., .41 mag., .45auto, .22-250, .30-06, and .375 h&h mag, my son has peaked my interest in owning an HN 5.7 x 28mm, I've seen mention of the Lee turret press for use in reloading for this caliber but not for the RCBS turrett press, can someone out there be so kind as to tell me what the reasons for not using the RCBS turret press for this caliber are! I know longer own neither of the presses I mentioned, so I'll be starting fresh.
Thanks Everybody!

Received this from Wilson today concerning inquiry about an 5.7 shell holder for Wilson trimmers.....

Hello,

That would be a special holder for us, all we need is three cases in the condition in which you intend to trim them
along with a check or money order for $30.50 for U.S. Customers that will cover the cost of the holder and shipping back to you.
For international customers please include $38.50 along with your cases. Turn around is just a few days.

Please send to the address below.

Thank you,

Wilson Support
L.E. Wilson Inc.
PO Box 324
404 Pionner Ave
Cashmere, WA 98815

reeldoc,

Thanks for the legwork on the Wilson Shell Holder.

I certainly appreciate it.

EJ

Good morning all,

New to this site but not to reloading. I did how ever just start reloading the 5.7x28. I have done a lot of research before I started to reload with all concern of weapons blowing up in peoples hands.
This is a straight forward caliber to load provided you pay attention to detail. I see that the dies are getting harder to get. One place that I have found is Titan Reloading but alas as of this morning they are out of these dies. I ordered mine 2 weeks ago. My next item that I wanted but cant yet is a case go/no go gauge. There is only one place so far that makes one and that is Elite Ammuniton and of course they are back ordered. I have contacted LE Wilson in hopes that they will start to make these gauges. Time will tell.
I use the Lee die set and they work great. What I used as a gauge to set the shoulder back was the barrel in a V block, a new factory load and a dial indicator. I pushed the shoulder back to -.002 of what a factory load measured. This worked well for me.
Dies: Lee 2 piece die set with case holder
Trimming: Lee Trim set
Case length: I went with a trim to length of 1.130.
Bullets: Sierra 40gr SP Hornets
Powder: Accurate #7 (Started at 7.0gr and I like this load at 7.3gr)
Primmers CCI Small Rifle
COL: 1.475
Scale: RCBS Powder Master
Press: RCBS Rock Chucker

Went to the range this last week-end to test my first loads and they shot beautifully. I dont have a chrono but plan on getting one just to see what the true velocity of these rounds are. I also shot some factory 197's just to see or maybe hear any difference. None that I could tell. (All though my back side was still puckered from squeezing the trigger for the first time).

I think the key to this round is staying well within the loading info that is out there. I used the Accurate data from their website. You need to pay attention to the length of the case as if they get a bit long they can and will start to jam the weapon or FTF correctly. Every place I have been on the forums and Accurate is DONT hotrod this caliber as they are very sensitive.

I have yet to reload the cases more than once at this point as I have a few hundred cases. The best way I have found to clean the cases (DONT Tumble) is 1 part Simple Green to 2 parts water. Clean and let air dry. If you tmble these caes you run the risk of polishing the poly coating off. This coating is needed for feeding and the blow back process.

I have found these to be a great way to save half the money of factory loads.

Have fun, be safe.

Dale

(Just my 2 cents)

Okay guys, looking for some help here. I'm new to the forum and was going to start reloading the 5.7. I have a Dillon 550B press and am aware that EA sells the shell plate for the 550B, but can someone weigh in on the best type of dies that I should purchase to use with the Dillon 550B?

Thanks.

I recommend Lee dies.
Check out the forum wiki for a full list of reloading equipment.
w/index.php?title=Reloading" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Rapier1772 wrote:I recommend Lee dies.
Check out the forum wiki for a full list of reloading equipment.
w/index.php?title=Reloading" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

:thumb: i to recommend Lee dies.

I looked over the reloading wiki and the first post in this string. I did not see any mention of some of the bullets that I have stockpiled for the zombie apocalypse. Are the following suitable for reloading in the 5.7x28 for a Five-seven pistol?:

30 gr Berger match
35 gr Hornady V-Max (wiki briefly mentioned these)
30 gr Barnes Varmint Grenades

Just asking because if I am holding on to some that are not well suited to this application, I should trade for some that are.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

I've loaded 30gr grenades before, maybe it was just me but they didn't work so well & frequently came out slightly crooked which would throw off any accuracy. Can't really say anything about the other 2

Any opinions on where to pick up the Lee Pacesetter die set?

Thanks Guys.

I waited out a five week backorder at Midway USA for my Lee dies. They were delivered in early March; a local gun shop got me a set of RCBS dies in about the same time through his rep.

Red Dog wrote:I waited out a five week backorder at Midway USA for my Lee dies. They were delivered in early March; a local gun shop got me a set of RCBS dies in about the same time through his rep.

I looked today on Midway and it didn't even list them.

I don't think they make the Pacesetter for the 5.7, it's not on their list anyway. Think you're stuck with regular dies like the rest of us :p

SandmanV12 wrote:

Red Dog wrote:I waited out a five week backorder at Midway USA for my Lee dies. They were delivered in early March; a local gun shop got me a set of RCBS dies in about the same time through his rep.

I looked today on Midway and it didn't even list them.

MidwayUSA lists them (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/261573 ... 57x28mm-fn" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). They're just categorized as rifle dies, rather than handgun dies. That's probably because they're listed as Pacesetter dies.

Lee does offer their Pacesetter dies for the 5.7x28 cartridge. Just a heads up. They're a mutha to snag though. Scored a couple a few months back.

Here's what the package looks like (minus the spare decapping pin in bottom right of snap):

How does a pacesetter different from regular dies? Other than the powder dipper & shell holder included.

Rapier1772 wrote:How does a pacesetter different from regular dies? Other than the powder dipper & shell holder included.

I think that is the difference...the extras. Most of their Pacesetter rifle die sets also come with a third factory crimp die. But for the rarer calibers like the 5.7 or 204 Ruger where they haven't developed a factory crimp die (yet?), they just sell it as a two die set with the extras, as opposed to their RGB (really great buy) sets, which only come with the two dies.

That's what I thought. So unless they've fixed their shell holder for the 5.7x28, it's not worth the hassle.
Buy the regular dies and an RCBS shell holder.

Actually, they only offer it as the Pacesetter set, and even then it's always classified as a "Very Limited Production" set. They don't even list it as one of the available calibers on their web site (http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/ ... 2-die-set/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). :facepalm:

Edit: My bad. It is shown far below (http://leeprecision.com/v-ltd-2-die-5.7x28.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;), it's just not shown in the preliminary list. I notice it says powder dipper and load data are not included, but that's not true. The set I just got from Ammodepot included the dipper, and load data identical to that in the latest Lee reloading manual (2nd edition Rvsd).

I found the RCBS #45 shell holder at Precision Reloading. Only had to wait three weeks for it. I don't plan to use the Lee shell holder that came with the dies after reading all the negative posts here.

No issue with the shell holder included in the Pacesetter die set here.

Something I hadn't seen listed anywhere is a powder checker or lockout die.

I've used the RCBS Powder Check die as well as a RCBS lockout die (modified) and they both work quite well.
If you're using a single stage it's really not necessary, but on a progressive it is a nice monitoring method.

The lockout is nice in that it locks the press out if you get a significantly higher or lower volume of powder in the case, while the check die just shows you if the current powder level is close to what you set the die at.

I purchased the case gauge and dillon 550 shell plate a few weeks ago but could not get the RCBS trim plate. The trim plate is now in stock along with some bullets (not loaded ammo). Glad to see a few things back in stock.

As mentioned in another post, I picked up a Five Seven this week and am starting the process of setting up to be able to reload. My basic reloading set up is:

Redding Ultramag Single Stage Press - I ordered a couple of Redding #35 shellholders which I understand will work with 5.7x28

Hornady LNL Progressive Ammo Plant - I ordered a custom shellplate from Hornady for the LNL press...and I am well aware of and understand that decapping/primer seating must be done in the single stage press

Most of my die set are the three piece Redding Titanium Carbide Competition sets. Redding doesn't make a set like that for 5.7x28 so I ordered a Redding three piece Deluxe Die Set [Redding Part# 84477, brownells.com Part# 749-007-802WS].

I use an LE Wilson Stainless Trimmer for case length trimming....they don't make collets for 5.7x28 as a standard size, but will make custom collets if three cases are provided. My sense is that the way to submit cases is to wait until I have the dies in hand, and size the cases using the actual dies in my set up rather than send spent cases so the gauge track the sized cases I would intend to use.

Has anyone gone down this path and would care to share experiences? Thanks in advance.

I wouldn't by the Redding die set. I wouldn't buy the RCBS, unless I can't buy the Lee dies.

Thanks for the thoughts....at present I have owned and use Redding dies in 5.56x45, 7.62x51, .338LM, 9MM, .40S&W, and .45ACP....and LE Wilson press type dies in the three rifle calibers. I have had nothing but less than experiences with Lee and RCBS dies in 30 years of reloading obviously with various differences in intensity. So my decision as to dies is done, the question really focuses on case trimming...thanks for the input.

Thanks to one of the members on here I now have a pacesetter die set, Thank you.

For those who still need a set, MidwayUSA just got the Lee dies in stock.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/261573 ... 57x28mm-fn" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I use the hornady can lock trimmer. Once its set it stays set. Just ordered the power adapter for it.

Cam * (smart phone is not so smart)

The list at the top of this post is pretty comprehensive, and has helped me narrow my shopping list, but I'm not quite set up just yet. I'm having some difficulty figuring out which pieces of the list are interchangeable, and which are required. I already have the following items:

Dillon 550B w/ the shell holder from elite ammunition
Lyman 3 piece dies
RCBS trimmer w/ elite ammunition's shell holder

The question I have specifically, is whether or not I need a primer/de-primer in addition to this set of dies, or does one of the lyman dies do this? (Lyman's website doesn't specify)
If the lyman dies don't deprime/prime, is there something I can use that fits the Dillon? (it seems silly to buy a standalone primer/deprimer instead of using the Dillon's 4th station)
If I have to buy the priming stuff seperately that's fine, I just want to avoid buying more equipment if I can use the Dillon's 4th station.

I hope this hasn't already been asked, but if anyone is using a similar setup and can help me out, I'd appreciate it.