The BEST WAY to Load the 5.7 x 28mm

[Hoosier Carry]

OK. I've been reloading 5.7 almost exclusively for about 4 years now. Coating??? What coating???? I don't worry about coating. I treat the brass almost like every other cartridge I've loaded. Yes I'm more delicate when sizing them, but other than that, it's pretty much the same. My #1 suggestion is to find as many tools for the 5.7 as you can. The best tool I have found to date is the Lee Full Size Body Die. (I could only find it on the Lee Product Site) After I am finished loading a cartridge completely, It goes to this awesome die. You'll find out your round is NOT ready to shoot like factory when using this die at the very end. Because there is definitely resistance when you pull the lever. This means there is more sizing going on and when it comes out of that die, it's as close to factory you'll ever get! The first thing I do after buying a batch of 5.7 (500 - 1000) is ANNEAL them all! But doesn't that burn off the coating??? What Coating??? This will give me up to and sometimes more than 7 firings each! Loose primer pockets and beat up rims are the main reason they get discarded.

I use tight-fitting shell holders. I size only with a RCBS Small Base Die (Body Only) or a Lee Sizing Die also (Body Only). Then a universal expander die. I Then proceed to de-prime with a universal de-prime die. Then I use a Frankford hand primer. I then like using the Lyman Powder Drop followed by an RCBS Bullet Seater. After all of that, it goes to the Lee Full Size Body Die. It gets those shoulder "round" like 5.7 factory shoulders are. Ever since I started doing it this way and I did my part in my same routine, I have 100% feeding, firing, and ejecting in every 5.7 firearm I own and I own quite a few. I'm a 5.7 Caliber Nut Job! I use about 5 different projectiles. No need to crimp with any of them cuz all the sizing dies leave very firm neck tension.

If you all follow this routine to the "T" with the same tools I use, I guarantee a life time of success loading the 5.7 x 28mm.

[panzermk2]

The Lee re sizer puts a taper on the case that gives P90/PS90 fits.

CH4D and Hornady resizer is a one time hit.

Lee crimp is pure shit, CH4D is the way to go crimp wise.

If you're stripping the coating off you will have issues.

[towerofpower93]

I put this n the other thread, but it's probably best to keep it to your thread so as to not run the other one off track:

What firearms are you using these reloads in? You say you treat them almost like any other cartridge you load, does that include dry or wet tumbling, with or without media in the wet tumbler, for a significant amount of time (hours)? I have not experimented with removing the coating and then trying them in my PSA Rock or PS90, but others have done so with mixed results with regards to feeding and extracting.

[panzermk2]

Actually sooner or later everyone even folks here who state they have zero issues always end up coming back when they do. This has been a pattern going back decades here. Someone new to the 5.7 joins and then states coating is not needed.

The cartridge was designed to use and need the coating. Why is it so hard for people to understand this?

Coating not needed are only surpassed by the , "You can't reload the 5.7"

Simple green and warm water is the best method.

Also see here, https://youtu.be/tWMmngceDiY?si=Ua ...

[GaCop]

Just getting into reloading the 5.7. With the coating being so critical, what about lacquer spraying cases that have been loaded a number of times?

[panzermk2]

Just getting into reloading the 5.7. With the coating being so critical, what about lacquer spraying cases that have been loaded a number of times?

1) I/EA sells a lacquer coating.

2) Normally as long as you haven't compromised the coating through re sizing the coating will last about 5 reloadsers. This "Normally" sometimes the coating is not cured very well and more comes off when the round is fired and also if you are loading hotter rounds instead of plinker you will gate faster break down of the coating. If this is happening see above 1) post.

At the 5x mark your primer pocket will give out and you will start to have neck separations.

[GaCop]

I recently loaded 5 test rounds with Hornady 40 gr V-Max, Win SR primers in FN cases. Powder is Accurate No 7/6.3 grains, OAL 1.580" I have noticed a little bit of lacquer being removed in the neck shoulder area. Loading was with Lee Dies. I'm loading these rounds for a friend's S&W 5.7 and we'll test these loads in his pistol before I go any further loading.

[lklawson]

I have noticed a little bit of lacquer being removed in the neck shoulder area. Loading was with Lee Dies.

Usually happens during the resize. I use the Hornady dies and lanolin lube and still occasional get lacquer scuffs near the base.

What lube are you using?

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[panzermk2]

Polish the inside of the die, also just an FYI the shoulder is the part of the case that gets worked the most during firing so of course gets worked the most re sizing.

[Buffman]

I use the Lyman dies and those have been amazing for keeping the factory coating intact. I'm able to resize at times with a very light or no lube.

[Leowolf]

After shooting my reloads once, i find the necks (every 5th one) braking off in my die. The resolution of this is to anneal the brass. That destroys the coating. Anyone found a suitable replacement? 24hrs of corncob tumbling with migiures fine cut takes it off…

[Leowolf]

Where are you getting your brass?

[lklawson]

After shooting my reloads once, i find the necks (every 5th one) braking off in my die.

This is not normal. There is something wrong with your process, your dies, or the brass.

The resolution of this is to anneal the brass. That destroys the coating. Anyone found a suitable replacement? 24hrs of corncob tumbling with migiures fine cut takes it off…

IMS, Elite Ammunition is selling a lacquer.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[panzermk2]

After shooting my reloads once, i find the necks (every 5th one) braking off in my die.

This is not normal. There is something wrong with your process, your dies, or the brass.

The resolution of this is to anneal the brass. That destroys the coating. Anyone found a suitable replacement? 24hrs of corncob tumbling with migiures fine cut takes it off…

IMS, Elite Ammunition is selling a lacquer.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

Wrong it is totally normally for the necks on the 5.7 to give out between 5 and 7 reloads.
It's the nature of the round.

Loading light practice rounds can make the brass last well into 7x

Annealing is a solution but in the past destroyed that last of the coating.

I /EA have a solution.

I worked with the supplier of my coating to can the right blend of solvent and coating for 5.7 brass.


Also make sure to NOT fully swage your primer pocket, just LIGHTLY touch up the mouth of the primer pocket. 5.7 is hell on primers and if you fully swage you will have primers falling out as soon as 3x .

[panzermk2]

It's in stock at the time of me typing this. The first two runs sold out MUCH faster then predicted.


https://eliteammunition.com/Elite-Am ...

[lklawson]

After shooting my reloads once, i find the necks (every 5th one) braking off in my die.

This is not normal. There is something wrong with your process, your dies, or the brass.

The resolution of this is to anneal the brass. That destroys the coating. Anyone found a suitable replacement? 24hrs of corncob tumbling with migiures fine cut takes it off…

IMS, Elite Ammunition is selling a lacquer.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

Wrong it is totally normally for the necks on the 5.7 to give out between 5 and 7 reloads.
It's the nature of the round.

If he wrote that this was after multiple reloads then I missed where he wrote that. What it looked like to me was first reload.

Reading it again, he actually doesn't specify if this is the first or the 12th reload.

Maybe we need clarification from @Leowolf

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[GaCop]

I have noticed a little bit of lacquer being removed in the neck shoulder area. Loading was with Lee Dies.

Usually happens during the resize. I use the Hornady dies and lanolin lube and still occasional get lacquer scuffs near the base.

What lube are you using?

Using Hornady sizing wax.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[GaCop]

Hornady sizing wax was used.

[panzermk2]

You might have used to much lube. 5.7 likes the lighter sizing lubes like one shot

Also polish the inside of your sizer body.